Strip Cut Construction Techniques
Page 3
Typical Firing Schedule
Here is a sample firing schedule for a 3/8" thick strip cut project composed of Bullseye Glass. Any of the variables may need to be adjusted based on the behavior of your kiln.
300 dph to 1000 F. Hold for 20 minutes
600 dph to 1250 F Hold for 45 minutes
800 dph to 1525 F Hold for 10 minutes
AFAP (as fast as possible) to 960 Hold for 2 hours
200 dph to 700 F No hold
300 dph to 300 F Off
Let the kiln cool to room temperature before removing and handling glass. While removing the glass and cleaning out the kiln avoid inhaling dust from any fiber paper or Thinfire® paper by having a well ventilated room, using a vacuum with a HEPA filter, and wearing a mask (in particular, a
NIOSHA Particulate mask fitted with a P95 filter).
Clean up
There may be sharp points along the edge, so be careful when handling the fired piece. The edges will almost always require grinding and smoothing with a tool such as a wet belt sander. If the piece is going to be slumped into a mold, it is best to smooth the edges before slumping.
You may find that the piece did not end up exactly square, round, or rectangular, so the shape may need to be slightly adjusted. If it is too long in one dimension, or not quite round, it is best to accurately mark the correct dimensions directly on the glass with a Sharpie marker, or something similar, and then cover the mark with paste wax (or Chapstick will do as well) to prevent the markings from quickly disappearing during the grinding process.
A wet belt sander (WBS) is a very versatile tool for both rounded and angular shapes. Starting with a 60 
or 80 grit belt, the edges of the glass should be ground so they are smooth, and any adjustment in shape has been accomplished.
Progressively finer grit belts are then used (120-220-400) to continue smoothing the edge to a clean, professional finish. A cork belt will continue to give an even higher sheen. Firepolishing at this point is another option.
Strip-cut construction can be used for simple projects such as small plates or for more complex pieces, such as sculptures, bowls, and wall hangings. I hope this article has piqued your interest, and you give it a try.
Here are some links from www.warmtips.com, written by Brad Walker. These links mention some tips that will help with fusing straight lines:
http://www.warmtips.com/20060809.htm
http://www.warmtips.com/20070111.htm
http://www.warmtips.com/20070112.htm